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Duck, Duck, Goose
Cover of Duck, Duck, Goose
Duck, Duck, Goose
Recipes and Techniques for Cooking Ducks and Geese, both Wild and Domesticated [A Cookbook]
by Hank Shaw
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A lush, illustrated cookbook devoted to preparing and cooking ducks and geese, both domestic and wild, from the author of the award-winning blog Hunter Angler Gardener Cook.

Duck is having a renaissance in American restaurants and kitchens as cooks discover that diverse breeds, species, and cuts of meat offer an exciting range of flavors and textures. Many cooks--and even hunters--have a fear of cooking fowl.Duck, Duck, Goose shows you how to cook duck and goose like a pro: perfectly crisp skin crackling with each bite, succulent confit, impeccable prosciutto, and more.

Hank Shaw, an award-winning food writer, hunter, and cook on the forefront of the marsh-to-table revolution, provides all you need to know about obtaining, cleaning, and cooking these flavorful birds. Duck, Duck, Goose includes detailed guides on species and breeds, selecting a duck in the market, and plucking and hanging a wild bird. Shaw's delicious and doable recipes include basics such asGrilled Duck Breast and Slow-Roasted Duck; international favorites like Duck Pho, Sichuan Fragrant Duck, Mexican Duck with Green Mole, and Cassoulet;and celebration-worthy fare such as Perfect Roast Goose. It also features an array of duck and goose confit and charcuterie, from fresh sausages to dry-cured salami.

The most comprehensive guide to preparing and cooking both domestic and wild ducks and geese, Duck, Duck, Goose will be a treasured companion for anyone who wants to free themselves from the tyranny of chicken and enjoy perfectly cooked waterfowl.

A lush, illustrated cookbook devoted to preparing and cooking ducks and geese, both domestic and wild, from the author of the award-winning blog Hunter Angler Gardener Cook.

Duck is having a renaissance in American restaurants and kitchens as cooks discover that diverse breeds, species, and cuts of meat offer an exciting range of flavors and textures. Many cooks--and even hunters--have a fear of cooking fowl.Duck, Duck, Goose shows you how to cook duck and goose like a pro: perfectly crisp skin crackling with each bite, succulent confit, impeccable prosciutto, and more.

Hank Shaw, an award-winning food writer, hunter, and cook on the forefront of the marsh-to-table revolution, provides all you need to know about obtaining, cleaning, and cooking these flavorful birds. Duck, Duck, Goose includes detailed guides on species and breeds, selecting a duck in the market, and plucking and hanging a wild bird. Shaw's delicious and doable recipes include basics such asGrilled Duck Breast and Slow-Roasted Duck; international favorites like Duck Pho, Sichuan Fragrant Duck, Mexican Duck with Green Mole, and Cassoulet;and celebration-worthy fare such as Perfect Roast Goose. It also features an array of duck and goose confit and charcuterie, from fresh sausages to dry-cured salami.

The most comprehensive guide to preparing and cooking both domestic and wild ducks and geese, Duck, Duck, Goose will be a treasured companion for anyone who wants to free themselves from the tyranny of chicken and enjoy perfectly cooked waterfowl.

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Excerpts-
  • INTRODUCTION

    Cooking a duck or a goose in today's world is an act of expression. It is a way to find that forgotten feast we Americans once enjoyed, to free ourselves from the Tyranny of the Chicken and shake our fists at the notion that fat is our enemy. Mastering these birds will make you a more competent carnivore. It will help you regain the skills we once had in our kitchens, and it will give you the knowledge needed to tackle more challenging morsels, such as giblets and wings and rendered fat. Cooking a duck or goose--a whole bird, from bill to feet--is real cooking. True, honest cooking.

    Like pork, these birds offer an array of flavors and textures depending on which cut you choose. But unlike almost every other animal we normally consider food, ducks and geese offer a diversity of breeds and species that even a novice can detect at the table. The flavor of a Pekin duck is as far from that of a goose as a skinless chicken breast is from a rib eye. And that is just a domestic example. Throw in the world of wild ducks and geese and your experiences multiply tenfold: a roasted green-winged teal bears little resemblance to an eider, a goose, or even a cinnamon teal. The common mallard can taste markedly different depending on whether it had been eating corn, acorns, rice, or fish.

    Waterfowl has a rich human history, as well. Tamed first by the ancient Egyptians, geese are one of humankind's oldest domesticated animals. Ducks, which arrived in the barnyard later, have nevertheless been domesticated for thousands of years and arose independently in two parts of the world before they spread to the rest of the globe. Cultures as far-flung as Mexico, Persia, and China have been cooking ducks and geese for more than three millennia, and nearly every cuisine in the world has found a place for duck at the table.

    Perfectly cooked duck breast has the meatiness of a steak with an additional cloak of fatty, crispy skin. In fact, it is better to associate duck with beef than with other poultry: think of the breast meat as a steak and the rest of the bird as the brisket. But it is the skin that most distinguishes duck in the kitchen. Crispy duck skin is one of the greatest pleasures of the dining table. It is the reason that Peking duck has persisted as a Chinese classic for nearly seven hundred years. And crispy skin is what separates confit, a French method of lightly curing duck legs or wings and then slowly cooking them in their own fat, from any another piece of braised meat. Confit is so meaty, silky, and crispy that it has become many a chef's "death bed" meal.

    I am not alone in feeling this passionate about waterfowl. Duck is experiencing a renaissance in restaurant kitchens across the continent. Seared duck breast or duck confit has become a common sight on menus. And just as with the pork revolution of the past decade, diners well outside of the nation's culinary capitals of San Francisco, New York, and Chicago are finding evidence of the trend: crispy duck tongues in Kansas City; duck skin cracklins in Toronto; duck consommé in Minneapolis; foie gras foam in Sacramento; duck legs, braised and pulled like carnitas, tucked into tacos in Austin. Diners are excited about duck. It has become the new pork.

    But this renaissance need not be the province of the professionals. Restaurant cooks are not wizards. With the possible exception of Peking duck, they are not cooking duck in mystical ways that require years of apprenticeship to master. Cooking a duck properly is not rocket science, though it does require some specialized knowledge. This book's primary goal is to give you that knowledge.

    I can hear some of you. You're thinking...

About the Author-
  • HANK SHAW is the author of the book Hunt, Gather, Cook and the blog Hunter Angler Gardener Cook, which won the James Beard Award for Best Blog in 2013 and the IACP Best Food Blog award in both 2010 and 2011. Shaw has been featured on the Travel Channel's Bizarre Foods and his work has appeared in Food & Wine, Organic Gardening, Field & Stream, and the Art of Eating, as well as hunting and conservation magazines such as Delta Waterfowl, California Waterfowl Magazine, and Pheasants Forever. He lives in the Sacramento, California area. Learn more at www.honest-food.net.

Reviews-
  • Publisher's Weekly

    August 5, 2013
    Shaw, author of the award-winning blog Hunter Angler Gardener Cook, extends the concept of nose-to-tail cooking to “bill to feet” in this original and beguiling collection. While duck is seeing a resurgence on restaurant menus, many people are reluctant to cook it at home. Shaw aims to impart the specialized knowledge needed to properly cook both domesticated and wild varieties of these birds. He starts with the basics, which include describing the various breeds of water fowl, how to break down a whole bird, and storage. There are chapters for recipes that deal with whole ducks, pieces, and extras (offal), and some of these recipes are fairly standard, including those for roast ducks or geese and confit. Thankfully, Shaw goes on to aptly demonstrate the versatility of these birds with Duck Fried Rice, Two Ways; Italian-style Duck Meatballs; and a gumbo with duck and shrimp. Recipes such as goose stew with barley and celery root, and pan-roasted goose breasts with orange and ouzo highlight several inviting goose offerings. Shaw’s extras are stellar and worth trying, not only because they’re so unusual but because they’re truly appetizing. These include duck heart tartare puttanesca; duck liver ravioli; and goose prosciutto. Sausages, hot dogs, and pie dough round out this eclectic but tasty host of offerings that beg to be tried. Agent: Jason Yarn, Paradigm.

  • Library Journal

    Starred review from September 15, 2013

    Shaw, author of the James Beard and International Association of Culinary Professionals Award-winning blog Hunter Angler Gardener Cook, has worked as a line cook, clam digger, and political reporter. Shaw's extensive journalistic experience is one of many reasons his boldly titled second cookbook, a "bill to feet" guide to preparing farmed and wild waterfowl, is so successful. Shaw consulted numerous sources to compile information he keenly relates to readers, such as how to hunt the tastiest wild species and how to hang, pluck, gut, and butcher a bird. Duck fat ("God's gift to potatoes") is an ingredient in nearly all these recipes, which range from quick and simple to extremely difficult. VERDICT A masterpiece. Even if you never plan to cook a goose, this enlightening guide is a fascinating read.

    Copyright 2013 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

  • Steven Rinella, author of American Buffalo and Meat Eater "Hank Shaw elevates waterfowl to its rightful place in the culinary skies. He will teach you how to turn flesh into edible works of art without sacrificing practicality. I'll be reading--and using--this book for decades to come."
  • Chris Cosentino, chef-owner of Incanto and winner of Top Chef Masters "You don't have to be a hunter to want to cook duck and goose. Thankfully, Hank Shaw has demystified these birds for all to enjoy!"
  • Daniel Boulud, chef, restaurateur, and author of Braise "Throughout history in Europe, Asia, and the Americas, the tasty, sustainable, and versatile duck has satisfied many happy diners. Whether you want to know the difference in taste between certain species or even how to make a duck hot dog, Hank's book is a perfectly thorough guide on everything you need to know about preparing duck."
  • Andrew Zimmern, host of Bizarre Foods and Andrew Zimmern's Bizarre World "In my universe there is no bigger star than Hank Shaw. Passionate and learned, his writing provides the inspiration for those who don't live the outdoors lifestyle to be in the field and on the water. His recipes teach even the most expert cook how to use the right techniques for handling waterfowl in the kitchen and his wit and wisdom make Duck, Duck, Goose a superb read. With Holly Heyser's beautiful and practical imagery, this book delivers on its promise to make us all more competent cooks."
  • Traci des Jardins, James Beard Award-winning chef and owner of Jardinière "I grew up among avid duck hunters and have enjoyed many meals of teal, mallards, and other wild ducks, and as a chef I've worked with every kind of domesticated duck. It's no secret that duck is one of my favorite things to cook. I love that this book exists! I hope it will inspire many more cooks to explore the wonderful flavor of wild and domesticated ducks."
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Recipes and Techniques for Cooking Ducks and Geese, both Wild and Domesticated [A Cookbook]
Hank Shaw
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